Word: terrail
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Judging by the popularity of fish in upscale restaurants, the curiosity is justified. Patrick Terrail, owner of Ma Maison, the Los Angeles celebrity haunt, reports that his fish sales are double those of meat. "God forbid that eight years ago I had served a raw fish in lime juice as an appetizer," he says. Today his marinated salmon in lime juice is a big seller on the posh menu...
...increasing acceptance in restaurant and home menus. At Dean & DeLuca, a Manhattan gourmet emporium that sells up to 100 Ibs. of fresh domestic wild mushrooms a week, Produce Purchasing Manager Lee Grimsbo notes, "People are beginning to think of them as a cooking item rather than something exotic." Patrick Terrail, owner of Hollywood's Ma Maison restaurant, had been importing dried mushrooms before he discovered that fresh morels, chanterelles, cepes and other varieties can all be found in the U.S. Says Terrail: "Mushrooms are just beginning to become a craze...
...most popular brand in the U.S. is Perrier, a French import that comes in an elegant tear-shaped green bottle. Says Patrick Terrail, owner of Ma Maison in Los Angeles: "Perrier has become a cocktail in its own right." For the thirsty cosmopolitan there are also Contrexéville and Evian waters, the two bestsellers in France, West Germany's preferred Apollinaris and Gerolsteiner Sprudel, and Ferrarelle, one of Italy's favorites...
Fort Knox. Americans, who are increasingly knowledgeable about wine, are among Terrail's favorite guests. La Tour rests above 150,000 bottles of wine, worth at his estimate at least $3 million. ("It's my Fort Knox," he says.) When a guest asks for a Coca-Cola, the waiter invariably replies, "What is that? How do you spell it?" There is one innovation that particularly pleases the well-to-do party giver: Terrail's notion of presenting only the host with a menu that lists prices. (A dinner for two, with a modest wine, will cost...
...Tour is not all that severe. To a sympathetic party, the management quite often proffers an after-dinner liqueur. And, says Terrail, no one blinks an eye when his guests swipe souvenirs. "You're in good company," says he. "Every year 14,000 ashtrays disappear...