Word: tides
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Dates: during 1960-1969
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...color on the old New England clapboard make them look garish rather than festive. Lewis' New York Store is closed. About the only scene of activity seems to be the wharf, naturally enough in a fishing town. It's calmer here, on the inside of the tip, and the tide is low, very low. A dinghy stands adrift on the black silt, waiting for the cold waters to come back; the rickety, nearly rotten legs of the wharf opposite are exposed in their spindly starkness to sea gulls, boats, and fishing nets...
Waiting for the tide, Portuguese fishermen, with leathery faces, stand ready by their boats. The loading and packing house is brightly lighted inside, full of crates and tubs of ice (which couldn't possibly melt), and everywhere the odor, the aroma, of fish--cod, of course...
...This places them away from the older, shabbier part of the harbor town, with its cluster of old streets and peninsula boulevard busy with buses and horse-drawn surreys. Developed haphazardly, with a strong flavor of claptrap and ticky-tacky, the magnificent sweep of beaches has seen the tide of tourism rise, then ebb. Now it is rising again, to fill the well-appointed hotels for the average tourist -El Presidente, Acapulco Hilton, El Elcano-sitting on the beach, surrounded by well-stocked shops...
...18th holes, where for 752 yds. there is nothing on the left but surf, sand, rocks and Hawaii-a 2,410-mile wood shot away. The smart ones bring gunny sacks and hang out in a cove, where balls hit into the sea are washed up by the tide...
...years of urban life as a journalist in Manhattan, Russell headed north on the scent of some wave-swept map specks off Newfoundland's and Nov Scotia's stern coasts. Among them were Hay Island, periodically exposed to it roots by the incredible fall of the Fundy tide, and Funk Island, on whose granite crest the great auk passed into extinction. Russell effectively translates for nonislomanes the mystical tug of the secret places offshore, "priceless monuments of primeval earth...