Word: tiffeau
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...couturiers fared well either. "I'm not going to waste my time and money in Paris on haute couture any more," a New York buyer said. Did this year's showing mark the demise of Paris as a center of high fashion? New York's Jacques Tiffeau put it this way: "I feel that Paris has been finished for about three years. There is no longer a leader. It is out of fashion to be fashionable...
...anybody be that loyal? Certainly not John Fairchild, says Designer Jacques Tiffeau. In his own special franglais, Tiffeau laments: "One day he love you and the next day he hate you." Tiffeau offers his analysis of WWD's success: "They survive because they are alone in a business and because we are at a time when people are demanding a dirty newspaper like Screw or Rat, and they are the Seventh Avenue equivalent of those magazines. They are not putting a nude picture on the front page but they should, and that's where they don't go far enough...
...devil? John Fairchild? A man with a cherubic face and dimple in his chin? It seems unbelievable. But it is true that his power scares the hades out of many fashion figures who are not as outspoken as Tiffeau. When interviewed by TIME reporters, several designers said nice things about Fairchild on the record and then nasty things off. For attribution, one said: "Fairchild is a genius." Not for attribution, he added: "His type of journalism is despicable. He is the Mafia godfather of the industry...
...midi campaign, Fairchild's principal strategists are Brady and June Weir, WWD's fashion editor, whom Fairchild made a vice president in a recent shakeup (and whom Jacques Tiffeau calls "a nun with a knife in both pockets"). Fairchild and Brady have been close friends ever since 1953, when John was covering the retail stores and Brady was working in Macy's advertising department. Weir came to WWD in 1954, also from Macy's, where she had been an assistant buyer. Fairchild first got the midi notion in 1966, says Weir, when he saw Zhivago-inspired coats in Paris...
Jack-o'-Lanterns' Teeth. Valentino was first with the layered look (either a shorter skirt worn underneath a midi coat, or the skirt itself divided into tiers of different lengths), but Jacques Tiffeau, Bill Blass and Donald Brooks have added frosting. Tiffeau has wrapped a deeply slashed camel-colored midi over a maroon mini skirt and topped some of his evening wear with necklines that do not stop till they hit the waist. Bill Blass settles for the double hemline for daywear and pulls out all stops at night with a series of multilevel chiffon dresses, plus some...