Word: tiffeau
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Dates: during 1960-1969
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Buccaneer Boots. To be sure, there were some Maxis. Weinberg did a couple in velvet, but he also showed many skirts that came three inches to five inches above the knee. Jacques Tiffeau offered up some Maxis, or "midis," as he calls them, but he, too, paraded a number of minis, some dramatically teamed with floor-length "Minuit" coats. Most designers seemed to side with Trigere: "I don't believe in the midi, or sweeping New York dirt into your apartment." Thus, in most collections, though skirts are floor length for evening, they fall somewhere above the knee...
...difference was that the U.S. designers had rediscovered the bosom. "The flat-chested look is out," proclaimed Jacques Tiffeau, who sent forth full-busted models in dresses with big square-cut armholes that gave a peekaboo side view of the breast. Chester Weinberg, Mollie Parnis and Pauline Trigère, among others, unmuffled their models with deeply slashed V necklines. Donald Brooks showed billowing evening pajamas with a low, ruffled, horseshoe-shaped decolletage...
...designers. His clothes are country and casual, designed specifically for a tawny blonde whom he describes as "a bit of a conformist but a woman who dares a little at night." A brunette like Manhattan's Louise Savitt also looks good in them. French-born Jacques Tiffeau, 38, is famed for his astute suits and his imaginative use of wools in evening gowns, which he designs for Monte-Sano & Pruzan as well as Tiffeau & Busch. He feels "a woman should have more personality than her clothes, but that's rare...
Everyone began scrambling to see who had lowered the hemline first. American Designer Victor Joris last year or Jacques Tiffeau last spring, claimed some. Alberto Fabiani in Rome the week before, recalled others. Even Patou's designer, Michel Goma, who brought waistlines up nearly under the arms, let the length vary from two inches above the knee to midcalf. The miniskirt? "Dégoütant," snapped Coco Chanel. "Now I know why men don't like women any more." And so Chanel stayed Chanel, with neatly fitted suits just covering the kneecap. Pierre Cardin dropped an inch...
Fabrics, more than color, are the big highlights. Leather, knit and tweed are big (often combined, particularly by Bonnie Cashin). Cassini and Pauline Trigère have richly printed brocades, Dior-New York shows them in fine, polished, often solid colors. Tiffeau is using lizard in trim and whole cloth for a waterproof, black evening raincoat. For shimmer and shine, the original beads-and-glitter girl, Roxanne of Samuel Winston, has some old-style heavy beaded dresses as well as new lighter ones. Scaasi's long dresses have so much sparkle that many come with protective theatrical capes. Larry...