Word: tiffeau
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Everyone began scrambling to see who had lowered the hemline first. American Designer Victor Joris last year or Jacques Tiffeau last spring, claimed some. Alberto Fabiani in Rome the week before, recalled others. Even Patou's designer, Michel Goma, who brought waistlines up nearly under the arms, let the length vary from two inches above the knee to midcalf. The miniskirt? "Dégoütant," snapped Coco Chanel. "Now I know why men don't like women any more." And so Chanel stayed Chanel, with neatly fitted suits just covering the kneecap. Pierre Cardin dropped an inch...
Fabrics, more than color, are the big highlights. Leather, knit and tweed are big (often combined, particularly by Bonnie Cashin). Cassini and Pauline Trigère have richly printed brocades, Dior-New York shows them in fine, polished, often solid colors. Tiffeau is using lizard in trim and whole cloth for a waterproof, black evening raincoat. For shimmer and shine, the original beads-and-glitter girl, Roxanne of Samuel Winston, has some old-style heavy beaded dresses as well as new lighter ones. Scaasi's long dresses have so much sparkle that many come with protective theatrical capes. Larry...