Word: tisseur
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Alain Passard's decision in 2001 to transform his three-star Paris restaurant l'Arpège - famous for its slow-cooked T-bones, lamb and duck - into a temple to the vegetable raised many an eyebrow in the world of haute cuisine. For the erstwhile master rôtisseur, however, it constituted a culinary rebirth. "Vegetables were a resurrection for me," Passard says. In seeking to define "the first vegetable haute cuisine," Passard has since created such signature dishes as beetroot in croûte de sel and onion flambé with pears and praline sauce. But perhaps...
Ecstasy in Minutes. His reforms were radical. In the kitchen chaos of the old regime, for example, one cook took 15 minutes to prepare Eggs Meyerbeer. Under Escoffier's system of specialists, an entre-mettier baked the eggs in butter, a ròtisseur grilled the kidney, a saucier dished up the truffle sauce, and a gourmet was made ecstatic in only a few minutes. Traditionally, a luncheon for 40 might consist of 40 courses, and a dinner might last 18 hours, but Escoffier forged a new concept, replacing Gargantuan plenitude and baroque splendor with classic simplicity. His menus...
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