Word: tofu
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Dates: during 2010-2019
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...Tokyo's streets, armed with goods and a gimmick. The caramel-candy man told tales; the frog-oil man rapped; the herb seller dressed like a hermit. Most are now gone, replaced by 24-hour convenience stores and complex vending machines, but Table-Mono, a company that peddles healthy tofu products, has revitalized the once fading industry. Table-Mono sellers blow a catchy tune on toy trumpets and cater to both a housebound and nostalgic elderly population and a younger group who are health-conscious and in a hurry. (See "What the World Eats, Part...
...Table-Mono has a gimmick too: a troupe of charming 20-something vendors. The company, founded in 2003 with a handful of sellers hawking mainly tofu, now dispatches 100 vendors into the different parts of Tokyo each day, selling everything from fermented beans and tofu pudding to soy-milk soup and tofu for pets. With wooden carts stacked high with turquoise crates, and a signature two-note trumpet call, the sellers stand out. Many of them moonlight as artists, and they are encouraged to develop their own vending persona. "Customers want to talk to a real person," says Kakinuma Daisuke...
...intersection Matsumoto sells a young mother soy milk and then he delivers eight packs of tofu to an elderly woman at her flower-lined house. Down the street, a fashionable young couple purchases tofu paste, tofu soup and a bag of tofu puddings, then excitedly snaps a photo with Matsumoto. "Rainy days, sunny days, I don't care," he says. "Business is always good...
...chili, is the house broth at this Chaoyang eatery, and it goes superbly well with fish. Catfish is one of the more popular choices, sold by weight and carried flapping and thrashing to your table as proof of freshness before returning as your dinner. Together with accompanying noodles, tofu and vegetables, you have the makings of a real feast. About $17 for two, tel: (86-10) 8575 1765. English menu and photos available...
Like him, Coleman now scoffs at the environmentalist vogue for vilifying meat eating. "The idea that giving up meat is the solution for the world's ills is ridiculous," he says at his Maine farm. "A vegetarian eating tofu made in a factory from soybeans grown in Brazil is responsible for a lot more CO2 than I am." A lifetime raising vegetables year-round has taught him to value the elegance of natural systems. Once he and Damrosch have brought in their livestock, they'll "be able to use the manure to feed the plants, and the plant waste...