Word: tomato
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Dates: during 1990-1999
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...Granthams say they can't divulge what products they're testing now. They do admit they helped McDonald's with its Big Xtra burger campaign (the Whopperlike 4.5-oz. lettuce-and-tomato burger debuted in Des Moines in January and is being tested in 10% of the chain's U.S. restaurants), and they had a role in Pepsi's decision to change the color scheme on its cans...
...spends his free time tending his tomato garden on Martha's Vineyard. In this era of e-mail, he bangs out his column on a typewriter. His friends praise his delicious plum jelly...
...with Alloro's fidelity to Italian custom, the portions are fit for an adolescent boy or a portly aging mafioso. Appetizers ($3-8) are convincingly disguised as entrees, entrees ($7-17) as next week's leftovers. Sauteed calamari arrive in a giant, steaming heap, covered by a light, fresh tomato sauce. Because the calamari are not breaded and fried, their flavor and freshness penetrate the domination of the tomato (that's right). The dish begs to be washed down by chewy bread (though the lacklustre bread should really have arrived at the table warm) and sips of sharp Chianti...
...preconceived notions about the nature of risotto. Literally dozens of steamed mussels (it must be admitted that it will take a while before I can stomach another mussel), clams, and, impossibly enough, more calamari drown a sizeable platter. A spicier, more complex version of the calamari appetizer's tomato sauce married the flavors of the fish. There was indeed risotto underneath the shellfish, though it was only made accessible after much digging. Layers of clothing were shed in the grueling process. A word of advice: it is an exercise in absurd and repetitive gluttony to order either mussels or calamari...
...None of it proved disappointing. The veggie plate is billed as an entree, but it proved the perfect appetizer to share, offering a sample of every vegetable on the menu. Arranged artfully on the giant platter were mashed spiced yams, mashed new potatoes, light and crispy fried green tomatoes, pencilthin sweet potato fries, black-eyed peas topping cheesy grits with tomato relish, and the inevitable nods to yuppies everywhere: mesclun greens with vinaigrette and portabella mushrooms roasted with goat cheese and walnut stuffing. Gourmandized Southern has never been so tasty, sopped up with the coarse, hot, freshly-baked cornbread muffins...