Word: tomatoes
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Dates: during 2000-2009
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...Maine crab and crème fraîche. The omelettes are simply good, not fabulous, and contain neither enough of the promising ingredients from which they are made nor even enough salt and pepper to give them an appropriate kick. The poached eggs over spicy tomato and chorizo ragout blend too easily into the ragout, which tastes and looks like little more than a red sauce with sausage and lots of onion. The selection is helped by toast points which do well at absorbing just enough but not too much sauce, but even at that, one might as well...
Before serving the main courses, Beuscher offered culinary advice and philosophizing. The immense skate came with a tutorial on how to cut sideways to avoid severing ligaments. Topped with tomato and parsley garnish, the gently flavored fish flaked easily but was definitely upstaged by the meat. The skirt steak ($20), served with potatoes, carrots and a chunk of marrow-filled bone, came with another lesson. While diners used to suck marrow out of the bone, hence the term “sucking the marrow out of life,” these days the bone comes sliced in half...
...aficionados, nothing says summer like just-picked tomatoes. They're at their peak, and chefs are celebrating with menus designed to showcase the scarlet globes. Alain Ducasse at the Essex House in New York City serves an appetizer of roasted tomatoes in a tomato gelee topped by tomato tuilles. Melisse in Santa Monica, Calif., offers an eight-course tomato tasting menu, and several eateries bake yellow-tomato cupcakes. The heirloom tomatoes that chefs like, including purple brandywines, green striped zebras and fuzzy blues, are popping up at farmers' markets and gourmet food shops, and the seeds are big sell...
...dining room proper, where flashlights and even luminous watches and mobile phones are prohibited, customers choose their fare in the restaurant's brightly lit, cheerfully decorated entrance hall. To add to the spirit of mystery, individual dishes are not clearly identified as, say, goat cheese on a tomato beignet. Instead, enigmatic descriptions such as "a flying visit to an Alpine cheese factory" make the diners even more curious about what's soon to hit their palettes. It's all very reminiscent of the exotic dinner parties planned by the Futurists, the early 20th century avant-garde group, who concocted multi...
...going well, you can point to the card that asks patrons not to sit for longer than a half-hour. The service is also impeccable. On one comment card a patron wrote, “I think the cheeze calzone would be enhanced by having some tomato sauce in it. Without it, it was a little too giant-cheese-sandwich-y.” The truly accommodating reply read, “Please feel free to ask for a side of sauce. We would be happy to supply it! Thank you for the feedback...