Word: torun
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...have in common. BB, when clothed, often wears a silver circle necklace with a pendant of Venetian crystal. PP, when he puts on a shirt, sports a pair of silver cuff links adorned with delicately hued beach pebbles. The jewelry is the work of a lithe Swedish girl named Torun Bulow-Hube, who lives with her husband in the tiny Riviera village of Biot and is known to a growing coterie of admirers simply as Torun. At 33, she is one of the most sought-after silversmiths alive...
Last year Torun won the Gold Medal at Milan's Triennale and a few months later got the coveted, U.S.-endowed Lunning Prize (it was Frederik Lunning who introduced Georg Jensen to the U.S.). Last week she had two shows running concurrently in the Museums of Fine Arts in Oslo and Copenhagen-a rich array of swirling and sparkling silver lightly sprinkled with semiprecious stones...
Chassis & Chalices. The green-eyed descendant of a long line of Swedish musicians, painters and architects, Torun began her career at a Stockholm school of industrial arts, where she fashioned everything from parts of automobile chassis to handwrought silver chalices. Drawn to Paris, she set up shop in a cheap Left Bank hotel, developed the technique that she has followed fairly consistently ever since. Not wishing to disturb her fellow tenants by hammering, she would draw and file her silver strips until they could be bent and twisted and hooked into graceful designs...
Simple & Sensuous. Torun early discovered that most European women had only two choices in buying jewelry: either the impossibly expensive or the gaudily cheap. Her own pieces sell for as little as $4, rarely cost more than $120. Torun's clients include Sweden's Princess Margaretha, Ingrid Bergman, Juliette Greco, Oona Chaplin and Duke Ellington. Once, in Biot, an 80-year-old washerwoman stopped Torun in the street and said: "I saw your daughter Pia wearing a lovely necklace. Would you make one like it for my daughter?" Happily, Torun...
...woman is a living sculpture whose inferior points one seeks to conceal and whose better features one tries to enhance," she says. Torun has turned out simple circle necklaces to which a variety of pendants can be added and which can thus be used on any occasion. But mostly her work is done with a particular client in mind: "Jewelry must marry the contours of a woman's body-in a word, be sensuous...