Word: toscã
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Branigan is one of Toscanini’s three chief ice cream makers. He’s used to watching ladyfingers disintegrate into ice cream-coated lumps and crushed berries smooth into sorbets on a twice- or thrice-daily basis. If you frequent Tosc??s (as it’s known to employees), chances are you’ve eaten his creations. His concoctions are sold over the counter, shipped out to large-scale vendors and rushed by refrigerated van to Tosc??s Harvard locale...
...here today to watch the birth of a flavor. Tosc??s encourages its employees to mix up new tastes, and originals often end up as popular as the basics. One staple, “Burnt Caramel,” was the result of a lucky cooking accident. Branigan gestures a freckled hand toward a jar labeled “Hot Pepper Paste.” Inspired by the suggestion of a Korean coworker, he’s mixed up today’s trial run of “Spicy Red Bean...
...leads me to the machines, which aren’t exactly the quaint little ice cream cranks I’d envisioned. Tosc??s uses two “White Mountains” and one “Emery Thompson.” The White Mountains are large green metal barrels, each holding a smaller eight-quart tub in a mixture of ice and salt. The ice cream mix is poured into the tub and rotated for half an hour; the results are soft-serve. Mix-ins are added and the resulting mess is flash-frozen overnight...
Branigan hauls the bucket to the Emery Thompson. A shiny, box-shaped machine, it holds 26 quarts and is mainly used to whip up sorbets and Tosc??s more popular flavors. He lifts a hatch and scrapes in ribbons of chocolate. Next, a bag labeled “Ice Cream Mix: 14% butterfat” disappears into the hole. Branigan flips the switch and turns to his blue-eyed coworker...
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