Word: townes
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...Kong has one paved road, a blink-and-you'll-miss-it dock and an inordinate number of Germans. The main activity for travelers in this border town is meeting other travelers. Most of the guesthouses and hostels in Koh Kong are run by Europeans and Australians (the proprietor and family usually live on-site) and are good for getting a drink, sitting in a hammock and chatting up your neighbor. They're also good for a cheap ($7 per night) room, if you can endure using a shared toilet. If not, I suggest you stay...
...tour outfits in Koh Kong aren't well advertised, but you can get yourself a seat on an organized excursion if you know whom to ask and don't mind surprises. We stumbled randomly on Otto, owner of a guesthouse called Otto's, on our first night in town. We went to his place for dinner (fantastic fried potatoes), and when we asked for advice on local tours, he pulled out his cell phone, dialed his friend Thomas and booked us instantly on a boat excursion for the following morning. His method was efficient if mysterious. Even as we boarded...
...next day, my husband and I decided to find our own adventure. We rented a motorbike for $4 and borrowed a couple of sturdy helmets from Bob, the Australian restaurateur who runs Bob's, in town. Then we headed east about 12 miles out of town to check out the Tatai waterfall with two friends we had met on the boat the day before - a 20-something German woman who was traveling solo in Asia for six months and a dreadlocked guy we resorted to calling the Wanderer because when asked where he was from, he said, "My last address...
...truck over just past our crash. A few of them hoisted our bike into the truck bed, tied it down and piled in after it. Keirn and I climbed into the cab with the driver, who turned out to be the proprietress of one of the nicer guesthouses in town, Koh Kong Guest House (Street 1, Koh Kong; +855-16-654-171); she took us to a pharmacy before dropping us off at our hotel...
...Which is what we did for the rest of our trip. From Koh Kong, we moved on to Sihanoukville, a 3-hr. drive southeast. Sihanoukville, named after a former king, is billed as Vietnam's up-and-coming high-end resort town, but for now, it is more accurately described as a beach town for backpackers. Hostels are abundant here, and there are a couple of nice hotels where you can get rooms for $5 to $400, depending on your budget. We got the last room, a private bungalow, at the one real resort in town, the Sokha Beach Resort...