Word: trailing
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...casual trash-talking with sailors in Jacksonville, Fla. "The terrorists brought this war to us - and now we're takin' it back to them," he told the troops, leaning an elbow on the lectern, squinting crosswise at the camera, tossing a breathy Clint Eastwood chuckle. "We're on their trail, we're smokin' them out, we've got 'em on the run." One imagined the French Foreign Minister watching this lunch-hour martial spectacle and choking on his baguette...
...Many hikers in Nepal opt to join a group tour, but I wanted some individual freedom. In Kathmandu I hired a guide, Kamal Bhatta, and he obtained my trekking permit, hired a porter and arranged transport to the trailhead, which took six hours to reach. Once on the trail, I could hike at my own pace and choose where I wanted to sleep, which was usually the place with the best apple pie. The Annapurna circuit's nickname, in fact, is the "Apple Pie Trail," in homage to the local specialty and the easy trek...
...Thorn Tree travel forum is a good place to start; go to lonelyplanet.com.) Beware of guides who tout their own services. Kamal Bhatta, of Beyond the Limits Trek and Expeditions, provides excellent value, with the added benefit of knowing which teahouses serve the best apple pie along the Annapurna trail; visit his informative website at seenepal.com...
...NIRVANA ON A PLATE While food on the Annapurna trail is pretty good, it's hard to beat a crisp-crusted pizza oozing with mozzarella and tangy tomato sauce straight out of an authentic wood-fired oven. Serving up some of the best Italian bistro fare this side of Sicily, Fire and Ice on Tridevi Marg, just outside Thamel, dishes up a delectable selection of pizzas, pastas and salads from its bustling open kitchen. While the terrace is perfect for watching the world go by, the restaurant also delivers to hotel rooms should post-trek patrons be too sore...
...Jampur's ger sits at the base of a hill to protect it from the wind. Not far away lies a trail of cow skeletons that have been picked clean and now blend seamlessly into the snow. "Those were mine," says Jampur. "They died last winter. There was no meat on the bones, so we just took the skins and left the rest." Inside, his ger is warm and smells like a wet horse. There's a shrine with carved animals and Buddhist prayer maps, and a lightbulb and television are wired to a car battery. For weather reports...