Word: trattoria
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Dates: during 1960-1969
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...city that once had the worst dining out in the Western world now has a variety and a class of restaurants that rival New York or even Paris. The little restaurants of Soho are unpretentious but ever so In, beginning with the Trattoria Terrazza (especially its downstairs Positano Room). Tiberio's in Mayfair, with its band and dancing, draws the smart set for later dinners, and other popular In spots are the Mirabelle in Mayfair, L'Etoile and the White Tower in Bloomsbury. London's restaurants and clubs are, of course, famed for their superb wine cellars...
...habitué follows a more calculatedly relaxed schedule: a noontime apéritif in the sun-drenched Piazza del Duomo, where one was sure to see George Balanchine and the Maharani of Jaipur. Or late lunch in the Trattoria Panciolle, followed by a long siesta. The music of pianos, violins and vocalizing floats out of narrow Renaissance windows; artists and audience are on first-name terms within hours. After dusk, international jet setters in white dinner jackets brush shoulders with gaping locals in sweatshirts at the superheated discothéque. Then it is on to a 16th century vaulted cellar...
...Fair restaurant at the World's Fair (which the firm took over this year). To wring a profit from its three restaurants in Manhattan's gargantuan new Pan American Building, President and Chief Executive Joseph H. Baum, 44, relied on novel dazzle. Result: the Trattoria's casual dolce vita atmosphere to woo after-theater crowds, Charlie Brown's Ale & Chophouse with a 19th century British menu, and Zum Zum, a sausage and beer bar so successful that Baum plans to expand it into a chain within the chain...
Surprisingly, the trattoria prospers, bringing unexpected fringe benefits. Signoret finds that she can still feel prudish about free love with a ne'er-do-well used-car salesman (Marcello Mastroianni). A neurotic colleague (Emmanuelle Riva) brings her son home to live for the first time. Another girl (Gina Rovere) meets a local construction man willing to help her build a new life. Then, inescapably, the past looms up to destroy all hope for a better future...
Bravo Giovanni is not intolerable, just interminable. Its plot, its songs and its dances go on and on, but they never really GO. The hero, Giovanni Venturi (Siepi), operates a homey trattoria in Rome. Next door, a flossy branch of the Uriti chain of restaurants opens up and threatens him with bankruptcy. A sly friend (David...