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...whole ethos is that luxury travel is about having experiences," says James Jayasundera, founder of Ampersand Travel in London, which specializes in customized tours of the Indian subcontinent. Paradoxically, in a country with 1.1 billion people, it can be tricky for visitors to truly connect with even one or two natives. "Traveling by train for short distances has always been a good way for foreigners to engage locals," he says. "Now there are a lot of small hotels run by absolutely fascinating people where guests mingle, sometimes eat together. These are also the best places for meeting upwardly mobile Indians...
...Southeast Asia and Japan with her husband and two young children. We felt "like guests in a friend's house. More guests arrived, and it was like one big house party." They were booked into Vivenda, in Goa, by Victoria Mills and Bertie Dyer, founders of the India Beat travel company in Jaipur, who pride themselves on uncovering new addresses. The Hochman family also liked other small hotels, including Samode Haveli in Jaipur ("like a pensione--the way they used to be") and Deodars, a manor house in Almora, in the Himalayas...
Several waves of development followed, typically punctuated by plagues, strikes, terrorist attacks and floods, sending all but the most determined tourists scrambling to alternative destinations. Some of the independent owners upgraded their properties, taking cues from the larger chains or from their own travels abroad. "The best ones reinvested, and now they've grown up," says Denison-Pender, who set up her agency in 2002 after 17 years as a travel planner. She likens the boom to the riyadh craze in Marrakesh. The small hotels she represents range in price from $50 to $700 per night, compared with the average...
...Even travelers who ordinarily make their own arrangements may welcome help in India. Keeping tabs on the new small hotels and knowing which ones have experienced declines in service require frequent visits. We loved one of the chic co-owners of Barwara Kothi, a new guesthouse in Jaipur. The food was delicious, and the Art Deco home where her in-laws' family entertained a maharajah has a good ambiance. However, it was noisy, though the owners have since planted barriers and reinforced windows. Also, be warned that some large travel operators snub the small hotels because the commissions paid...
...Harvard women’s cross country team, there is only one direction to go this weekend: up. The Crimson will travel to New York City’s Van Cortlandt Park to compete tomorrow morning in the 31st annual Heptagonal Championship, which serves as the championship race for the Ivy League. Last year, the Harvard women finished a disappointing eighth, nearly 200 points behind champion Princeton. But a lot has changed for the Crimson in the last year, and most of that is due to coach Jason Saretsky’s first recruiting class. “They?...