Word: tretinoin
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Dates: during 2000-2009
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First across the finish line, in 1995, was Ortho Dermatological's prescription cream Renova, a less concentrated form of its antiacne medication Retin-A. The two are the only products that have been medically proved to reduce fine lines. Their active ingredient, a form of vitamin A called tretinoin, does at least two things: it boosts the development of firm new keratinocytes and smooths tiny creases in the upper layers of the epidermis. The downside: some women find it irritates their skin too much...
Renova's success inspired something of a rush on vitamin A. But instead of using tretinoin--which would trigger intense FDA scrutiny, not to mention a patent-infringement lawsuit--most over-the-counter skin products contain other forms of vitamin A. Although these compounds, technically known as esters, are not biologically active, the theory is that certain enzymes in the skin would convert at least some of them into tretinoin...
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