Word: trillins
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...those reputed to have laid a pencil to the project are Michael Arlen, Carl Bernstein, Nora Ephron, Frances Fitz-Gerald, Jerzy Kosinski, George and Freddy Plimpton, Terry Southern and about three or four dozen other wordsmiths from leading publishing firms, the unemployment rolls and the Times itself. Observed Calvin Trillin, one of the town's few big-time scribes who declined to participate: "Sounds as if they emptied the back room at Elaine's for this...
With Alice as his almost constant companion, Trillin samples country ham in Sulphur Well, Ky., savors andouille gumbo turned out by the Jaycees of Laplace, La., tastes the loup en cro*ute at Paul Bocuse's world-renowned restaurant in Lyons. Throughout all, the tongue-in-cheek Trillin philosophizes that "Marriage, as I have often remarked, is not merely sharing one's fettucine but sharing the burden of finding the fettucine restaurant in the first place...
...Trillin says the subject has a lot to do with the way it seems sensible to him to write it. In his 15 years at the New Yorker, Trillin has reported on a wide range of subjects. Murders. A Chinese town in California bought by a Hong-Kong developer. Integration of Atlanta schools in the fall of '61. The idea of foodwriting, he said, came to him as a sort of "comic relief...
...Trillin approaches this kind of "effortless" writing about people in the section of Alice, Let's Eat where he discusses Fats Goldberg. In 12 pages he creates a marvelously warm and funny character portrayal of the New York City pizza baron. Fats, we learn, has a mania for inventing crazy and impracticable schemes, such as an early-morning catering service called Brunch a la Goldberg, and a "pizza pusher" device made of plastic that would allow someone to eat a piece of hot pizza without burning his fingers. Best whacky idea of all, perhaps, was for Fats (who used...
Alice, Let's Eat is not a book by a "grownup" food writer. Its author's spontaneity and childlike view of the world save it from being tedious in the manner of most food books. Instead, Trillin has written a witty and trenchant mishmash of culinary anecdotes and satire--one that will not grow stale upon a second or third helping...