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ALICE, LET'S EAT by Calvin Trillin...
...gourmet is someone who would not fly from New York to Nebraska simply to check out a steakhouse rumored to serve beef in the rough shape and size of a softball. A gourmand is someone who would. Author Calvin Trillin did. His conclusion: "I've tasted worse steaks." Trillin, however, has an edge on his fellow gluttons, whom he describes as Big Hungry Boys. A peripatetic correspondent for The New Yorker for the past eleven years, he has an excuse to roam the country at will, eating, sometimes quite literally, off the fat of the land. A writer...
This collection of 15 pieces, Trillin's second book on food, is subtitled "Further Adventures of a Happy Eater." Understatement is at work here. When barbecue is being dished up at Arthur Bryant's in Kansas City, or when Dungeness crabs are moving smartly from Pacific to pots in San Francisco, Trillin is not just happy, he is beatific. He is also remarkably free of guilt. Reminded by his wife Alice that he weighed 180 lbs. at his last checkup, Trillin instantly reduces that figure: "I always allow fourteen pounds for clothes...
Descriptions of food, music, sex and the funny remark made around the office water cooler have one thing in common: you really had to be there. Trillin manages to convey his appreciation for what he eats without straining after poetic equivalents of the taste. After a generous helping of crabes farcis, he simply notes that "chefs on Martinique tend to use as stuffing what I suspect a crab would have chosen to stuff himself with if only he had been given the opportunity." He has high praise for the cooking of a Manhattan neighbor and adds: "Alice claims that when...
...Correspondents Eric Pace and Charles Mohr, Reporters Israel Shenker and John Noble Wilford, to name only a few, are former TIME correspondents or writers. So are Editor T George Harris of Psychology Today, syndicated Newsday Columnist Nick Thimmesch, Michael Demarest, an editorial executive at Playboy, New Yorker Writers Calvin Trillin and John McPhee, Alvin M. Josephy of American Heritage. The pseudonymous financial analyst "Adam Smith," author of the bestselling The Money Game, wrote for our Business section under his real name, George J.W. Goodman, before becoming editor of The Institutional Investor. Syndicated Hollywood Columnist Joyce Haber is a former TIME...