Word: tuna
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...Quimet i Quimet, all of the food is preserved in one way or another, but if you're envisioning Spam, you're in for a surprise. Producers like Ramón Peña and Paco Lafuente put out a high-quality product, canning everything from octopus to tuna belly. Some of their top tins can cost as much as $54 for almost as many clams. However, just because the ingredients are canned doesn't mean the food isn't wonderfully creative and fresh. Brother-and-sister team Joana and Joaquim (Quim) Perez Sanz are the fifth generation...
...range SUVs. Excursions on offer include tours of the jungle on giant-engine trail bikes or tours of the coast in giant-engine speedboats. And money and hydrocarbons meet in delicious symphony at one of Port Gentil's smartest restaurants, San Lorenzo, whose $30 special is currently "fresh tuna in oil." The manager, Ludovic, a trim 25-year-old Frenchman who was born in Port Gentil and returned to open a restaurant after cleaning up as a model in Paris, is candid about the effect his home town can have on your sanity. "Almost everything costs in Port Gentil...
...Catch in San Jose, Calif. "We have to find out what's coming in on that particular day and let them know so they can change." Café 150, which opened a year ago, can serve no shrimp or scallops, since they can't be found in the area, and tuna was available only from August through October, when currents brought bluefins into the radius. The day I visited, Keller hadn't learned what vegetable he would be serving until the night before. (He got baby red chard...
...been pretty happy to discover, on at least half the dinner menus I've scanned in the past year, entrées topped with a poached egg: halibut, salmon, pasta, chorizo, ratatouille, tuna tartare, mushrooms, chicken, crab cakes, asparagus, salad. And it always works, adding a richness and silkiness to everything, a protein-on-protein, Atkins-era overindulgence that makes me psyched to be an American. "Hey, this is delicious, but wouldn't it be better if we plopped some bird ovum...
...Sometimes what sounds like routine breakfast fare on the menu is really just the chef's way of making a little mischief. The newly renovated Picholine near Lincoln Center in Manhattan serves a dish called "bacon and eggs," in which the bacon is actually smoked tuna belly. And Brodsky once featured "green eggs and ham" in homage to Dr. Seuss, which was actually a truffled spring pea custard served with proscuitto chips and caviar. "I did it to have some fun and not take myself so seriously," he says. For diners too, lightening up about what to eat for dinner...