Word: tuna
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...boiled fingerling potatoes, fresh, sweet yellow beets, maytag blue cheese, black olives and greens. However, the freshness of the ingredients was smothered by a pasty, creamy dressing. The Trio of Carpaccio ($13) was a similar case of good ingredients overwhelmed by sauce. Tender, delicious raw scallops, peppered beef, and tuna arrived on a platter elegantly garnished by veggies and greens. Each variety of carpaccio was doused liberally with a different sauce: scallops were accompanied by red pepper vinaigrette, beef by creamy caper sauce, and tuna by an unidentifiable dressing that looked like Russian dressing and tasted of anchovies. The result...
Seared blackened tuna steak will probably never edge out jambalaya where it counts. But perhaps it should. Topped with lightly fried beer-battered shrimp, the succulent fish swam on top of a vaguely tangy mustard sauce. The plate was livened by spicy sauteed collard greens--or perhaps it was the more raffine kale--and mashed potatoes. The overstuffed pork chop was way too sophisticated to hearken back to grand-ma's recipe. It came stuffed with apple and andouille sausage which cohered around moistened breadcrumbs. Black plum ketchup provided a foil for the smoky, spicy meat. The same potato...
...prices are more New York than New Orleans--$4 to 8 appetizers, $10 to 20 entrees--but the overhead must be high to support all those mushrooms with goat cheese and seared tuna. Best of all, their menu changes seasonally, and Magnolias frequently offers theme menus that stick more to their Southern roots. For the open-minded neophytes among us, let there be flan and microbrews amongst Magnolias fried green tomatoes...
Remember a few years ago when you suddenly couldn't eat a tuna-fish sandwich without a pang of guilt--unless the tuna can bore a seal promising that no dolphins had inadvertently been harmed when the fish was caught? Soon there will be a new faux pas du jour: eating the endangered swordfish. If environmentalists have their way, most restaurants will take the delicacy off their menu, and those that don't will lose customers in the wake of a great swordfish boycott...
...International Commission for the Conservation of Atlantic Tunas, a 36-nation body that regulates swordfishing as well as tuna fishing, has set quotas for member countries. "But it's too little too late," argues Carl Safina, director of the Living Oceans Program of the National Audubon Society, who favors a return to harpooning. "People are sick of seeing resources crashing. This goes beyond being an environmental problem; it's a public problem...