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...away ugliness never cease to surprise me. I like to wander down Istiklal Street in Beyoglu early in the day, while it's still empty, toward Tunel, stopping off at Robinson Crusoe, tel: (90-212) 293 6968, for books; Lale Plak, tel: (90-212) 293 7739, for CDs; Umit Unal, tel: (90-212) 245 7886, and BNG, tel: (90-212) 251 9726, for funky, inspired clothes; and Takil, tel: (90-212) 292 1792 for artisanal jewelry...

Author: /time Magazine | Title: A Perfect Day in Istanbul | 9/17/2009 | See Source »

...district, popular for its nargile - or water pipe - cafés, dozens of patrons sit on candy-colored beanbags, puffing on glass pipes, impervious to the impending change as they fill the air with the scent of fruity tobacco. "This is part of our culture," says cafe owner Ali Unal. "I understand not smoking indoors. But they say you cannot smoke even outside if you're under an umbrella. I don't see how they will enforce this." Enforcement is likely to be even harder outside the big cities. Smoking is a way of life in rural Turkey, where...

Author: /time Magazine | Title: Lights Out: Turkey is Next to Ban Smoking | 7/17/2009 | See Source »

...that reject thousands of Islam's most controversial practices, from stoning adulterers to honor killings. Some hadith, the scholars contend, are unsubstantiated; others were just invented to manipulate society. "There is one tradition which says ladies are religiously and rationally not complete and of lesser mind," says Ismail Hakki Unal of Ankara University's divinity school, a member of the commission. "We think this does not conform with the soul of the Koran. And when we look at the Prophet's behavior toward ladies, we don't think those insulting messages belong to him." Another hadith insists that women...

Author: /time Magazine | Title: A Quiet Revolution Grows in the Muslim World | 3/19/2009 | See Source »

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