Word: ungaro
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...Being a beginner, it was natural that I should lean toward something I knew," she says. That means sensuality and films. So she asked 15 couturiers to create dresses capturing the personality of 20 film makers. Some of the results are nothing short of smashing, witness Emanuel Ungaro's idea of Andy Warhol: a floor-length cape punctured by hundreds of holes with plastic spheres swinging in the openings. Or from Lanvin, the dramatic Pier Paolo Pasolini creation: a black sweater that takes a breast-baring plunge to the waist, with bold-patterned Zouave pants. For the sensual part...
Even Emanuel Ungaro, famed for his superhard edges, turned his virtuoso hand to fluid fabrics, softly sashed dresses and loosely pleated skirts. His best look: a long dress in a pinwheel print, belted, bloused and all at once both elegant and sensuous. Dior's Marc Bohan is every bit as enraptured with the languorous look. Bohan softened his necklines with bows and scarf ties; and his hiplines had a series of stitched pleats that flattened first, then flared out. Deep colors glow like Tiffany stained glass; fabrics are light, jerseys, crepes and silk velvets. And again and again, capes...
...Emanuel Ungaro remembered the mini fondly in a series of short, pleated skirts but covered most with midi-length coats, while Jacques Esterel's "he and she" collection featured tunics all round, ankle length and so narrowly cut as to be equally hobbling for either sex. Courrèges lowered his sights with a floor-length black vinyl apron atop flaming red briefs. (It is not the most practical outfit, but that did not seem to matter when Raquel Welch modeled it.) Mostly, Courrèges fell back on the old jumpsuits, made of vinyl and stickier than ever...
...short, short line against the downward tug of the midi and maxi forces? Would there be a repeat of 1947's New Look, plunging hems toward the ground-along with the hopes of girl watchers around the world? By week's end, who could tell? Some designers (Ungaro and Courreges) liked them short. Others (like Chanel, who calls the midi "awkward") prefer skirts that end at the bottom of the knee or at the ankle. Yves Saint Laurent is absolutely jenesais pas on the subject. He has a new long daytime look -straight cardigan suits that stop short...
Pierre Cardin is the Parisian fashion designer who first put models in crash helmets, matched short skirts with colored stockings and more recently dressed men and women in futuristic space suits. Fashion experts rank him among the top five trend-setting designers, along with Yves St. Laurent, Courreges, Ungaro and the House of Dior. As haute couture's top entrepreneur, however, Cardin has no equal...