Word: upperclawss
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...true formulas: no drinking on the job; plenty of references to favorite people (like Pat Di Cicco and the Plaza Hotel's Colonel Serge Obolensky); a few good feuds, a generous salting of his copy with such phrases-some of them borrowed from other chefs-as snobility, cafelegant, upperclawss, Longuyland, the Rarefied Set. He also leased an apartment on Manhattan's upper East Side (Maury Paul said a good address made all the difference). And one thing more: "I think it is very important," he said, "not to develop a pot belly...
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