Word: urchin
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...Falco, let it be said at once, is a man of 40 faces, not one - none too pretty, and all deceptive. You see that grin? That's the, eh, that's the Charming Street Urchin face. It's part of his helpless act: he throws himself upon your mercy. He's got a half-dozen faces for the ladies. But the one I like, the really cute one [and here J.J.s voice grows flintier], is the quick, dependable chap. Nothing he won't do for you in a pinch - so he says. Mr. Falco, whom I did not invite...
...carried him to Paris and through Latin America. Many dishes are served on a block of translucent glass that looks like ice. One is tuna accompanied by horseradish sorbet, colder and more crystalline than the traditional horseradish in cream. Among our other favorites were a soup of sea urchin, seared foie gras and watermelon; and hot smoked arctic char with octopus, mushroom, buckwheat ragout and duck consomme...
...travel around the world eating lamb testicles, duck embryo and a still-beating cobra heart ("like an aggressive oyster," he says). For this interview, he escapes from his Upper West Side apartment to a signless Japanese restaurant in the basement of a midtown Manhattan office building. He orders sea urchin roe and clam abductor muscle, smokes nine Lark cigarettes, and points out what he says is a geisha house behind a door without a handle. Chefs know all kinds of cool stuff...
Howie Blitzer is a pie-faced Long Island (L.I.) urchin who quotes L.I. luminary Walt Whitman in the same breath as issuing a tide of expletives. After a young highway hustler fulfills the obligatory role as an intoxicatingly unruly and unreliable friend, Howie finds comfort in the company of Big John, a heartily patriotic pederast. While the film occasionally veers into heavy-handed obviousness—could Howie be looking for a father figure to supplant his own crooked contractor dad?—and the ending is disappointingly inane, it resists the usual topical temptation for sensationalism. L.I.E. also...
Darwin is alive and well in Nish's recipes. On a Thursday evening in the gleaming basement kitchen, a worker dots a carpaccio of lobster that rests on a shiso leaf with dollops of mentaiko, or spicy cod roe, and uni, or sea urchin. "The first time I made that, I thought I'd sell a couple to Japanese customers," Nish says. "Instead, it's become one of my most popular dishes." Another worker shaves thin circles of black truffle to decorate a wedge of hamachi, or yellowtail, sizzling in a pan of duck fat and bacon morsels...