Word: vanillaism
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...lemon ices in the South Bronx when he was a small boy, and he has continued to follow the ice-cream business. Competition from big manufacturers forced him up the quality ladder. He raised his butterfat content to 12%, from the customary U.S.-regulated minimum of 10% for vanilla, and was successful for a while. The opposition caught on and, he says, began to undercut him with illegal discounts and credit deals. So he decided to go where the chains could not follow, to 16% butterfat and, never mind the cost, the very best ingredients. The new ice cream...
Zogby talked freely about the problems of using natural flavors. Real vanilla beans add flecks to the mix, and some customers used to the cheaper artificial flavor vanillin complain of dirty ice cream. Real mint flavor is as clear as gin, not green. A blend of pumpkin and squash tastes more like pumpkin than pumpkin alone does, but squash ice cream sounds dreadful, so the firm's flavorers had to work harder and stick with pumpkin. Most cherry ice cream contains bright red bits of cherries that have been embalmed, as maraschinos are-bleached white with formaldehyde and then...
Superpremium makers and feeders might take butterfat for thought from a test of 28 vanillas run a couple of Sundays ago by the Washington Star. Nine food experts, including Weiss, rated his own product fifth but decreed that Häagen-Dazs belonged in second place ("pleasing texture," "natural flavor," insufficient "oomph"). Frusen Glädjé was not tested; Alpen Zauber was far down the list, in the "puffy-fluffy, sweet-misery" category, having been rated "creamy but no taste," "salty." So were several other prestige brands: Sedutto's, Bassetts, Baskin-Robbins, Louis Sherry, Breyers and Schrafft...
...notes, is that customers who talk to the scoopers get more ice cream. She and her colleagues fight brain-fade by sizing up customers ("definitely a Swiss orange-chip person") the way soda jerks used to do. "The other day a guy came in and ordered a frappe with vanilla and mocha-chip ice cream, vanilla syrup, marshmallow sauce, hot butterscotch and an egg. That was weird." Her word frappe here is a Frenchified New England term for what Midwesterners call a milkshake...
...like Sealtest. It's very good-especially the vanilla and the chocolate, and a wonderful mixture called Heavenly Hash...