Word: veruschka
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Today the look, famously captured on film in 1968 for Vogue magazine with the cult model Veruschka posing, above, in the middle of the African savanna, is back in fashion, thanks in part to newly appointed Yves Saint Laurent creative director Stefano Pilati...
...With her 5 ft. 11 in., 38-24-36 frame, doe eyes, delicate cheekbones and mane of high-piled dark hair, she epitomized the classical, aristocratic look that she helped to make the style standard of the 1950s and '60s, along with Suzy Parker, Capucine and Veruschka. She never approved of the earthy, natural look that arrived in the 1970s with laid-back lovelies such as Lauren Hutton, Cheryl Tiegs and Margaux Hemingway. Fashion, she lamented, became "boobs and butts, anything to make pictures sexy." Even so, she knew how to make fashion pay: Wilhelmina Models Inc., which...
...everyone buys her. One elder of the beauty biz finds the California look distinctly boring. "There have, always been superstars," says Diana Vreeland, who worked as an editor of Bazaar and then Vogue for four decades. She cites Veruschka, one of her own discoveries, from the '60s, "an artist who did the most extraordinary things with herself." The '60s, Vreeland feels, were more interesting. She considers the naturalism of the present period cloying. "There's too much blowing in the wind. At one time, it was fashionable to be made up and it was not fashionable to have your clothes...
When Lauren Hutton started displaying herself for pay seven years ago, the ultimate fashion model was Veruschka, who was as tall as a basketball player, thin as an eyebrow pencil and mysterious as an Ingmar Bergman heroine. By those standards Hutton seemed to be in the wrong game. She is only 5 ft. 7½ in.-slightly below average for a mannequin. Worse, by her own rather exaggerated reckoning, she has a "lopsided face, crossed eyes, a bumpy nose, and a Huckleberry Finn gap between my front teeth." When Photographer Richard Avedon first saw her, he wrote...
Avedon believes that "all the great models are exceptions to the rule. Twiggy was too small, Parker too tall, Veruschka too eccentric, Jean Shrimpton too vacuous. Lauren is too ordinary." Vogue Editor in Chief Grace Mirabella says: "Year after year she gets better looking. It's the mood of the girl that comes through. She is a direct, strong, intelligent, straight woman. There's nothing chichi...