Word: victor
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Dates: during 1950-1959
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...some principle by which the names have been changed to protect the guilty, Leon Trotsky, whose real name was Lev Davidovich Bronstein, in this novel is called Victor Rostov. But there is no doubt that the book is about the chess-playing, intellectual Commissar of War (1918-25) who lost his long struggle for power with Stalin. Trotsky became the grand heretic of a religion whose god is the state; it was his peculiar hell that he never ceased to believe in the religion that had made him its principal devil...
...shape of things to come in Easter bonnets-and most other hats-is largely determined by a short, pert, alert woman who is one of the U.S.'s most successful businesswomen. Sally Victor, 54, is not.only the biggest fashion hatmaker (more than $500,000 a year) in the multimillion-dollar millinery business (1958 sales: $300 million), but she is a trend setter (along with such designers as Mr. John and Lilly Dache), the only milliner to win the Coty award, fashion world "Oscar." Her $55-to-$90 creations (up to $1,000 with fur or jewelry) soon reappear...
...shift in fashion; the longtime dictum that every woman had to wear a hat to be well dressed almost died in the flight to the suburbs and the new, casual living. But fault also lay with the hatmakers; hats became too silly even for women to wear. Says Designer Victor: "We forgot one thing-to make the hats pretty. All you have to do is show a woman that she looks prettier with a hat on than off, and money doesn't mean a thing." As hats became pretty again (Designer Victor scored with her flowered hats), sales rose...
...hats so high priced? Top hat workers get high wages ($4.50 an hour) and spend an average of six hours' work on a Victor hat. The markup is high (100% to make up for the seasonal nature of hats, greater sales risk and packing costs...
When designing, Sally Victor makes no sketches, works directly with hat bodies and materials. She sometimes takes a week to create a single hat, but under pressure can design as many as 30 hats in a day. For the 2,000 she turns out a year, she gets ideas from everywhere. She got her 1940 "Flemish sailor" hat. which is still widely copied, from the tight-fitting, brimmed hat in a 15th century painting by Roger van der Weyden. She designed a line of successful "chessmen" hats after seeing a show of old chessmen at New York's Metropolitan...