Word: vineyarders
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James Taylor. Baby James has come quite a ways since that night at Sanders. Superstardom, its problems, liasons with Joni Mitchell and Carly Simon, marriage, life of the West Coast, building a house on Martha's Vineyard, even a couple albums. It may be the flat Appalachian twang, or the dryness of his wit, but I think James Taylor sings his life better than Neil Young sings his. What it really is, is that he approaches, but never reaches, the bounds of insipidity...
Born near Modesto, the brothers grew up working the small vineyard owned by their father, an immigrant from Italy's northern Piedmont. "We had a tractor in the barn, but we didn't have enough money to buy gas," recalls Ernest. "Instead, we used four mules and worked the vineyards seven days a week from daylight to dusk." With the first stirrings of repeal, they dug up $5,900.23 in capital and set out to produce their own wine. They rented a railroad shed for $60 a month, bought a $2,000 grape crusher and redwood tanks...
Both Gallos live quietly in houses on the Modesto vineyard. They arrive at the office at precisely 8 a.m., spend the day in frequent communication with each other, and knock off at 7 p.m. When the Gallos entertain, usually for visiting company executives, they serve only their own wines-a white, a pink, a red and a champagne. Says Ernest: "Only when Mrs. Gallo and I are at home alone, which is not very frequently, will I drink my competitors' wines in order to follow their progress." Ernest and Julio are both at the age when many men retire...
ALEXIS LICHINE, author of Wines of France, Encyclopedia of Wines & Spirits and owner of the Château Prieure-Lichine vineyard in Bordeaux...
Professional oenophiles, who make, market or write about wine, are an elite of cultured globetrotters. Often foreign born or foreign educated, they jet about the world constantly, moving from one vineyard to another in search of new tastes and bouquets. Vintners treat them like pashas. Wine pros frequently interrupt their travels to get together for comparative wine tastings (during which they seldom swallow the wine, but slosh it around in their mouths and spit it out; they can taste dozens of wines at a sitting without getting high...