Word: vionnet
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Driven by more humble if no less admirable ambitions, Karim Vionnet launched his Villié-Morgon vineyard to "make a wine that was simple and natural." That meant rejecting the common thermovinification technique (which he says homogenizes wines) in favor of a cold carbonic maceration that preserves freshness without added sulfites. His Beaujolais-Villages, with their ample red fruit flavors and light, tickling tannins, epitomize the French word for silky gulpability - gouleyant...
...Vionnet credits his techniques to a group of Villié-Morgon-based winemakers dubbed the Morgon Gang of Four. In the '80s, Marcel Lapierre, Jean Foillard, Guy Breton and Jean-Paul Thévenet gathered in opposition to "industrial wine" to make pesticide-free, nonsulfured, nonfiltered wines. Marcel's son Mathieu is heartened by the new crop of feisty purists. "The trend with many of the young winemakers today is to practice vinification and agriculture respectful of the region's identity," he says. The results are far more exciting than the cookie-cutter Beaujolais Nouveau of old. "We have different...
...seams story of fashion has been the influence of women not as models, but as makers and marketers of clothes. Designers like Coco Chanel, Elsa Schiaparelli and, later, Donna Karan and Jil Sander conjured entire fashion universes and great fortunes with ideas that revolutionized the way women dressed. Madeleine Vionnet reshaped the silhouette with her bias cut one seam coiling around the body and enhanced 1930s screen stars' sex appeal. Claire McCardell's Popover dress answered the sartorial prayers of '50s housewives all across America. And with the simple invocation to "feel like a woman, wear a dress," Diane...
...cleaner, linear look that has characterized the 20th? This show at the Met's Costume Institute makes the dazzling and utterly convincing visual argument that what facilitated the transition was the influence of Cubist painting and theory. From the tunics of Callot Soeurs to the cylindrical day dresses of Vionnet to the drop-waist skirts of Chanel in the 1920s, fashion's deflation followed the Cubist embrace of the plane. In other words, liberated from corsets, women everywhere owe a thank-you to Picasso and Braque...
Milbank has a fine eye for social comment. Her heart may belong to purists like Madeleine Vionnet or wits like Lagerfeld, but who are the most influential designers? High on her list would be Molyneux, Adrian, Givenchy and Lauren--because of the way they dressed show-biz stars. Molyneux popularized the slinky chic of the '30s with his costumes for Gertrude Lawrence in Private Lives. Adrian, a West Coast designer snubbed by the fashion establishment, camouflaged Joan Crawford's broad shoulders by exaggerating them and produced the dominant look of the '40s. When Jacqueline Kennedy brought elegant dressing...