Word: vionnet
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Dates: during 1930-1939
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...rakish as usual were the productions of Elsa Schiaparelli, who supposedly designs in silhouettes with paper and shears. Her best ideas: new "doll" hats suggesting birds' nests, in fur; high-buttoned colored kid boots; tiny electric lights on handbags and ornaments. Schiaparelli's opposites, Vionnet and Alix, who pay heed to anatomy and do their designing on models, showed finely draped and molded dresses. The derivative-exotic appeared in the collections of Molyneux, who used vaguely Oriental touches, Lanvin, who offered Persian toques and flares, and Paquin, whose long, slim, golden gowns suggested the Chinese...
...cloth-of-gold blouse, bought by cinemactress Claire Windsor in 1925. Magnin's will take only lines that it can handle exclusively in its territory. One of its West Coast exclusives is Hattie Carnegie gowns. Magnin keeps a buyer in Paris to watch styles, purchase creations by Lanvin, Vionnet, Patou, Schiaparelli, Chanel, Molyneux...
...buying models. They make up copies from this information, bootleg them as bona fide originals at greatly reduced prices. French law prosecutes style pirates relentlessly: 400 were once jailed in a single drive. The fight against piracy was led by an Egyptian named Trouyet, head of the house of Vionnet. He is described as "a horrible person, but smart...
...power as arbiters of the ultra-modern haute couture. They are not necessarily the most popularized, nor are they all heavily patronized by U. S. buyers. Regardless of who else might be included nearly every fashion expert would agree that in this group the following houses most decidedly belong: Vionnet, Lanvin, Augustabernard, Main-bocher, Molyneux and Schiaparelli...
...Vionnet is in appearance a typical French seamstress. Small, nimble, birdlike, she is incredibly skillful with the needle, sews better than anyone in her shop. Although she is reputed to be the daughter of a Monte Carlo cocotte, her contemporaries speak of her with awe and respect, consider her the dressmaker's dressmaker. She achieves a classic elegance of line at the expense of color. To make her gowns cling to the figure she cuts her materials on the bias. A couturier for nearly 40 years, she designs her models on a famed wooden doll...