Word: vionnet
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...styles have a shortage of seductive names. Whereas U.S. stores once unblushingly publicized a Schiaparelli pocket, a Vionnet neck or a Mainbocher waistline in a little $8.75 number, this year they may have to be satisfied with "a deep armhole cut" or equivalent. Exception: fall colors (so numerous that no one color predominates) have names like rose champagne, maharaja bronze, tissue-paper blue...
Saks Fifth Avenue (head designer, Sophie): much ado over Sophie's "plastic seaming," and adaptation of Alix and Vionnet's tiny seams and gores which give a gown a poured-on look; a fitted hiplength, fur-edged jacket after Vermeer; men's tie silk for formal dinner gowns; men's sleeve lining for suit blouses...
...rakish as usual were the productions of Elsa Schiaparelli, who supposedly designs in silhouettes with paper and shears. Her best ideas: new "doll" hats suggesting birds' nests, in fur; high-buttoned colored kid boots; tiny electric lights on handbags and ornaments. Schiaparelli's opposites, Vionnet and Alix, who pay heed to anatomy and do their designing on models, showed finely draped and molded dresses. The derivative-exotic appeared in the collections of Molyneux, who used vaguely Oriental touches, Lanvin, who offered Persian toques and flares, and Paquin, whose long, slim, golden gowns suggested the Chinese...
...cloth-of-gold blouse, bought by cinemactress Claire Windsor in 1925. Magnin's will take only lines that it can handle exclusively in its territory. One of its West Coast exclusives is Hattie Carnegie gowns. Magnin keeps a buyer in Paris to watch styles, purchase creations by Lanvin, Vionnet, Patou, Schiaparelli, Chanel, Molyneux...
...Vionnet is in appearance a typical French seamstress. Small, nimble, birdlike, she is incredibly skillful with the needle, sews better than anyone in her shop. Although she is reputed to be the daughter of a Monte Carlo cocotte, her contemporaries speak of her with awe and respect, consider her the dressmaker's dressmaker. She achieves a classic elegance of line at the expense of color. To make her gowns cling to the figure she cuts her materials on the bias. A couturier for nearly 40 years, she designs her models on a famed wooden doll...