Word: visitors
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...these and other sights of Harlem, the anxious white visitor can hop a Harlem Spirituals bus at 9 some Wednesday morning. As the bus heads uptown, a guide sketches a history of the district. A walk through Hamilton Grange and Sugar Hill precedes a stop at the Schomburg Center. And then . . . nirvana. At the Manhattan Christian Reformed Church, a storefront mission run by and for recovering addicts, the Rev. Reggie Williams spins a stirring homily: "You have the power to pray when you wanna party! The power to close your veins to dope and open your brains to hope...
...tour is over, but the visitor should stay for the day in Harlem, beginning with a saunter down Seventh Avenue to the Mount Morris Park historical district. Girding the rocky park, today named for Marcus Garvey, are rows of beguiling Victorian houses. Head north on Fifth Avenue for an unpretentious lunch of pork chops and collard greens at La Famille...
Another quick cab ride deposits the visitor at New York's most ecstatic secular event: Amateur Night at the Apollo. A great seat for this slice of Harlem history costs just $12. Almost all major black entertainers played the Apollo, and many got their start at the Amateur Nights that have been held for 50 years. From the beginning, the host has been Ralph Cooper, who can still boogaloo and scooby-doo like a septuagenarian Michael Jackson...
...Abyssinian congregation makes every timid white sojourner feel serenely at home. At the service's end, one parishioner approached a visitor, extended his hand and said, "Thank you for joining us. Won't you come again?" It is an invitation no "foreigner" could refuse, after a trip uptown that he began in fear and skepticism and ended by believing the unbelievable. "Harlem," he says, invoking Duke Ellington, "I love you madly...
...speed. There has never been a Surgeon General like him, not even Luther Terry, who slapped warnings on cigarette packs 24 years ago. It's a fair guess that Terry was never air-kissed by Elizabeth Taylor, the butt of jokes in Johnny Carson's monologue, was never a visitor to the set of Golden Girls, and never lectured Hollywood producers about showing safe sex in their programs. Antismoking is a small part of Koop's crusade; AIDS, child abuse, domestic violence, pornography, old people, drunk driving and Baby Doe regulations made Koop one of the most visible officials...