Word: vreeland
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...Diana Vreeland Knopf; 196 pages...
...author herself might say, this book is not a grand'chose. Diana Vreeland has lived near the center of the fashion world all her life, as the wife of an international banker, as editor of Vogue, and currently as impresario of the Metropolitan Museum's Costume Institute...
...irritating and trivial, but if one takes it on its own blithe terms it is highly enjoyable. Vreeland has the blunt realism of an old survivor (she is somewhere in her 80s), and the eye that made her career has not dimmed. The best colors? The yellow of a taxicab, the blue of the sky on Kennedy's Inauguration Day, the pink of a Provence carnation. Her hero is her husband of 46 years, whom she refers to almost solely in terms of his exquisite clothes-felt hats as smooth as satin, overcoats that Garbo loved. Helena Rubinstein...
...Vreeland's higgledy-piggledy does have the effect of a kaleidoscope. One sees the arrival of the mini, the pantsuit for day and the androgynous "smoking" for night, boots, turtlenecks, sporty furs. Picasso keeps reappearing, usually in witty design quotations. So do plaids; in 1979, Saint Laurent's heart went deep into the Scottish Highlands, and he made a formidable, fanciful rig. Except for his Mondrian motif, Saint Laurent was not comfortable with minis; the late '60s belonged to André Courrèges. In fact, despite the influence of specific designs, Saint Laurent has not always...
...Last Tuesday when he found his way to the Costume Institute in the bowels of the Metropolitan Museum, he was stopped by a security guard and meekly signed in to see his own show. As the frantic week of preparation went on, he was coaxed one way by Diana Vreeland, the other by his hectoring partner, Pierre Bergé. Saint Laurent did his best, moving as if in a daze...