Word: waitering
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...list is 103 West. It is discouraging at first glance, gussied up with enough faux-everything kitsch to make one wish for a machete to clear a path to a table. However, once one is seated, delights appear, marred only occasionally by a lax waiter or an overdone duck. There are sublimely puffy lump-crabmeat cakes and tender veal chops with morels. Not to be missed: profiteroles filled with foie gras. The kitchen also serves an original version of pot-au-feu for which the succulently moist, tarragon- scented chicken arrives with leeks and angel-hair pasta...
...seating policy and an altogether corny menu recitation, the sparkling little supper club offers winy hot borscht, herbed rack of lamb, roasted guinea hen in a lemony olive sauce and a gently sweet banana-almond souffle. Asked why there was not more Russian food on the menu, the waiter answered, "The Czar Nikolai ate only French food." Smart...
...around, there was Holbrooke -- it was like a Peter Sellers movie," jokes one Dukakis supporter. Giddily he pursued his comic notion. "He'd be looking in from the door. Look again, and his head is poking through the window. The staff would order drinks, and he'd be the waiter bringing in the tray of martinis." Roger Altman, investment banker and Dukakis fund raiser, who understands the etiquette of job placement, warns, "Those who are qualified for the senior positions don't have to ask for them...
...equal success. Take Le Gourmand, which despite its French name offers the local cuisine. Run for three years by Bruce Naftaly, 34, and Robin Sanders, 35, the restaurant produces lackluster food and some needless extra irritants. The tone of service is both chummy and didactic. An unsmilingly intent preppie waiter offers the "observation" that the regular coffee has far more flavor than the espresso. As for ice cream, one can have it "nestled" beside a poached pear, but in the waiter's opinion, "it is good enough to stand on its own," a promise not fulfilled by the bland dessert...
...sense of worthlessness, Kazan says, is what drove him. It stemmed from his foreignness (he immigrated to the U.S. with his Greek parents when he was four); his lack of social status at Williams College, which he worked his way through as a fraternity-house waiter; and his lack of visible talent at the Yale Drama School. He acquired his nickname, Gadget (latterly Gadg), because the Group Theater people found him such a handy little guy to have around, "doing whatever I had to do to gain the tolerance, the friendship, and the protection of the authority figures...