Word: wasabi
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Dates: during 2000-2009
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Tuna appears again in the form of toro sushi, an extra fatty version of the fish, highly prized in Japan for its supple texture, served over rice with a hint of wasabi. Sushi is all about the quality of the raw materials, and the toro at Fugakyu was as fresh as could be. Giant clam sushi, however, billed as the special of the day, was repellent and the one misfire of the night. It tasted like a gargantuan, fishy belly button...
...traditional nigiri sushi as for its impressive array of Americanized maki rolls. Caterpillar roll, containing barbecued eel and cucumber surrounded by rice and thin slivers of ripe avocado, was a successful (and amusing) concoction. The sweetness of the barbecue sauce worked well countered by a drop of the potent wasabi and a slice of the pickled ginger. Spider roll, containing an entire deep-fried soft-shell crab, was a delicious, gut-busting treat. Eating the mammoth rolls was quite a challenge—but one well worth taking...
Nakamura is so enamored of the colorful chunks of metal that in 1994 he named his magazine after the mightiest of them all, Giant Robot. The hip 'zine delves into Asian-American culture and spots the latest trends from across the Pacific - from wasabi-flavored potato chips to schoolgirl porn. Today's toy robots, says Nakamura dismissively, tend to be cobbled together with cheap plastic. Die-cast robots, on the other hand, are emblematic of the kind of Japanese craftsmanship that transformed the nation's image from shoddy imitator in the 1960s to technological leader just a decade later...
...edamame (soybean) in place of dinner rolls, serve fish raw rather than deep-fried and use soba instead of linguine. Sometimes the influence is as subtle as a drop of lemony ponzu whisked into a vinaigrette; other times it's as in-your-face as mashed potatoes creamed with wasabi, a dish so ubiquitous it's become a clichE. So many of the finest New York chefs work Japanese ingredients or techniques into their cooking that Ruth Reichl, editor-in-chief of Gourmet magazine and former New York Times restaurant reviewer, says: "I would say there are none that...
Above all, though, Sono is New York. Look for proof in a menu celebrating the Jewish holiday of Passover: matzo balls in miso soup, sansho pepper-crusted lamb, even gefilte fish quenelles with wasabi and beet juice...