Word: wasabi
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...battle with fish" (in his view, becoming a sushi chef is only slightly less difficult than becoming a surgeon, and requires a considerably stronger stomach). But his book is also peppered with fascinating diversions into the macho culture of sushi bars, the physiology of octopuses, and the cultivation of wasabi, a plant so rare that sushi restaurants almost always substitute a blend of mustard powder and horseradish...
...spherified" olives that, when put in the mouth, exploded with a gush of intensely flavored olive oil. The liquid yolk of a quail's egg came wrapped in a hard burnished shell tasting of candy. Citrus pulp turned into a tangy risotto. An utterly normal-looking raspberry, dotted with wasabi, turned out to be crisp and fragile on the outside, and bursting with hot juice on the inside...
...card to buy yourself sushi at the Cafe. Then spike his latte with the wasabi...
...snack flavors seem to clump around versions of salt and pepper, wasabi and pickle. But the flavor breakthrough has been to finally combine the taste of buffalo wings with the flavor of blue-cheese dip. Kettle Krinkle Cut Chips Buffalo Bleu is a thick potato chip that manages to deliver the slight spice of barbecue with a cool, creamy aftertaste. It's impressive, but there's a vinegar taste that gets in the way. Doritos Blazin' Buffalo & Ranch isn't nearly as complicated, but it takes that weird Cool Ranch flavor I never liked, puts it up front and then...
...most ambitious kaiseki restaurant, Kubota goes to extraordinary lengths to bring a Kyoto accent to the land of fish and chips. That means flying in speciality vegetables and Kyoto's soft water for the signature clear soup. He trawls from Iceland to Madagascar for fantastic fish. Grated Shizuoka wasabi - not that fake electric-green paste - accompanies the tsukuri, a sashimi course elaborately composed on handmade ceramics. Fragrant matsutake mushrooms evoke autumn, while Kobe beef melts in the mouth like foie gras. Dishes like sesame tofu are nods to Kyoto's Buddhist vegetarian cuisine. At the end comes the spiritual heart...