Word: willhelm
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Dates: during 2000-2009
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Spurning conventional retail wisdom, designers like Bernard Willhelm and Kostas Murkudis sell their clothes in anonymous shops in the Mitte and Prenzlauer Berg districts; shoppers track down the addresses through friends, clubs or posters plastered around the city. Many retailers take out short leases, so their establishments come and go in a matter of months, while the locations of shops like Apartment and clubs like Fun are passed on by word of mouth. Japanese designer Rei Kawakubo was so inspired by Berlin's transient scene that she opened her own "guerrilla" Comme des Garcons store in East Berlin in February...
...Recent students, including Veronique Branquinho, Raf Simons, Bernhard Willhelm and the duo at A.F. Vandevorst, also set up shop in Antwerp; they travel the 400 km to Paris twice a year to show at the Prêt-à-Porter collections. This isolationist instinct doesn't end at choice of headquarters. The graduates from Flanders also shun mainstream publicity, rarely granting interviews and often refusing to be photographed. The reason? They say they want their work - the image of their designs - to speak for itself...
...garment trade or just someone who likes to watch skinny women get slathered in goop. At the Louvre, Dutch duo Viktor & Rolf unveiled their Black Hole line, featuring models dressed entirely in black clothing and covered in black makeup, leaving only their freaky glowing eyes for illumination. Meanwhile, Bernhard Willhelm took inspiration for his collection from the dung-gathering rites of scarab beetles, decorating the faces of his living dolls with an application of something that looked a lot like manure. It smelled a lot more like desperation...
...descendants of the Prussian clockmaker, Karl-Willhelm Naundorff, aren't prepared to do that; they have rejected the DNA analysis. After all, the claim of this pretender was supported by a former Versailles maid, who swore he was the same boy she'd seen at the palace, by some French royals, and by his tombstone, which reads HERE LIES LOUIS XVII, DUKE OF NORMANDY, KING OF FRANCE AND NAVARRE. May they both rest in peace...