Word: wining
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Dates: during 1970-1979
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Even the most devoted wine drinker may pale on finding that his favorite 1962 Château Ducru-Beaucaillou, which just a year ago cost $5.95, is now $12.75; or that a 1967 Lynch-Bages, which was $4 in May 1971, is now $13.75. Traveling from Bordeaux to Burgundy, a 1971 Joseph Drouhin Pouilly-Fuissé, $4.80 last December, is up to $6.65. As for German wines: a 1971 Graacher Himmelreich Spatlese, $6.50 a year ago, is today...
Dollar devaluation, European inflation and speculation by large liquor firms are three of the reasons. Another is strict French laws regulating production of the most sought after wines. Demand continues to grow in the U.S., Asia and Europe. Not only are Americans drinking more table wine than ever* but Japan has had a stunning impact on the market. Tokyo importers sometimes outbid rivals by as much as 50%. In London, Sir Hugh Wonter, chairman of the Savoy Group, predicts that within a few years his hotels will have to charge $75 for a bottle of Bordeaux. "I think," Sir Hugh...
Costly Complexity. That switch is too radical for most wine lovers. Depending on one's pocketbook and palate, there are still many good buys to be had, and oenologists are helping laymen to search them out. Michael Aaron, vice president of Manhattan's Sherry-Lehmann Co., one of the largest wine retailers in the U.S., says that the affluent customer who balks at paying $60 for a 1970 Château Lafite label (it was $30 a year ago) can go to a quite acceptable Beychevelle at "only...
Even that solution is too costly for the vast majority of Americans who take wine with their meals. Hence the search for wines that are not included in rated growths of Bordeaux, but are good nonetheless. Beaujolais is still a relative bargain, though many people might object to paying $9, say, for a Fleurie...
...Wine Merchant Rod Pearson of Brentwood, Calif., suggests an alternative: "A Château Haut Bergy 1967 at $6 won't be as 'complex' as a Léoville-Poyferré, but the latter does not have three times the complexity...