Word: wining
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Dates: during 1990-1999
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...talking serious vinegar now, the familiar sour wine (a literal translation of the French vin aigre) that has become the condiment of the hour -- and not just to sprinkle on salads or pickle veggies. As diet-conscious customers shun butter and cream, top toques at grand-luxe restaurants increasingly use it to give low-cal piquancy to their creations. At Manhattan's Montrachet, chef Debra Ponzek uses champagne vinegar as a basis for lemongrass sauce and dollops cider vinegar into a ginger sauce for roast duck...
Both rice-wine vinegars -- vital to Oriental cuisine -- and dark, mellow sherry vinegars are fast sellers at specialty stores around the country. Even more popular among foodies is Modena's aromatic, sweet-sour balsamic variety. Alas, most of the cheap brands on the U.S. market bear little resemblance to the syrupy real stuff, which costs as much as X.O. Cognac...
Making one's own, as a growing number of amateurs have discovered, is not hard either. All you need is some decent wine and a starter kit (cost: $79 or so), which includes a barrel and a "mother" -- the bacterial agent that in three weeks or so transforms the wine into acetic acid. There can be a downside to the hobby. Jeanette and Pierre Garneau of Nantucket, Mass., started producing small amounts a few years ago and now sell 1,500 bottles a year to New England specialty stores. The problem, says Jeanette, is that "we always smell like vinegar...
...something wrong when a $7 movie in the mall can leave you with post- traumatic stress syndrome. In the old days killers merely stalked and slashed and strangled. Today they flay their victims and stash the rotting, skinless corpses. Or they eat them filleted, with a glass of wine, or live and with the skin still on when there's no time to cook. It's not even the body count that matters anymore. What counts is the number of ways to trash the body: decapitation, dismemberment, impalings and (ranging into the realm of the printed word) eye gougings, power...
JAZZ SAXOPHONISTS can often size one another up by the age of their instruments. An old and weathered sax sounds the way an aged wine tastes: smooth and mellow, but with a bite. Last year's vintage is for the nouveauriche, the amateurs...