Word: wining
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Dates: during 2000-2009
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...Monday, January 19, 2009, in the quiet car of an Amtrak train from Penn Station to Union Station, I claimed a seat beside three women traveling together. They offered me homemade cake and a stick of gum while they chatted and sipped mini-bottles of white wine from the café car. Through the train’s windows, we watched the American cityscapes and countrysides fly by. I knew I had to go. Especially when I found out that I would finish finals the Saturday before he was to be sworn in. But despite my long-standing resolution...
Next door to Talay is Covo (www.covony.com), a massive warehouse of a joint where the wood-burning ovens deliver around a dozen types of pizzas - from prosciutto crudo to Treviso (radicchio, gorgonzola and walnuts) - and the fresh sea bass is marinated in white wine and oregano before being baked whole in a brick oven...
Driven by more humble if no less admirable ambitions, Karim Vionnet launched his Villié-Morgon vineyard to "make a wine that was simple and natural." That meant rejecting the common thermovinification technique (which he says homogenizes wines) in favor of a cold carbonic maceration that preserves freshness without added sulfites. His Beaujolais-Villages, with their ample red fruit flavors and light, tickling tannins, epitomize the French word for silky gulpability - gouleyant...
Vionnet credits his techniques to a group of Villié-Morgon-based winemakers dubbed the Morgon Gang of Four. In the '80s, Marcel Lapierre, Jean Foillard, Guy Breton and Jean-Paul Thévenet gathered in opposition to "industrial wine" to make pesticide-free, nonsulfured, nonfiltered wines. Marcel's son Mathieu is heartened by the new crop of feisty purists. "The trend with many of the young winemakers today is to practice vinification and agriculture respectful of the region's identity," he says. The results are far more exciting than the cookie-cutter Beaujolais Nouveau of old. "We have different...
...Wine Country: A Day in Beaujolais With its medieval villages, rolling hills and lanes of lush Gamay vines, Beaujolais - which wine writer Rudolph Chelminski likens to a "Hollywood set for an ideal vineyard region" - is well worth the two-hour train ride from Paris. Visit Domaine Lapierre and the vineyards of the other members of the Morgon Gang of Four in Villié-Morgon, where you can sip and sleep at Domaine Jean Foillard's bed and breakfast, tel: (33) 4 74 04 24 97, overlooking the vine-covered Côte de Py hills...