Word: womenswear
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...nearest competitors, Giorgio Armani and Ermenegildo Zegna, combined. The company still makes 1.6 million suits a year, but that's old news; it now reflects a wider cultural shift and has repositioned itself from a suit-driven menswear company to a lifestyle company with womenswear, accessories and, under license, fragrance, eyewear and watches. (Jewelry made by Swarovski is about to launch, and children's wear will arrive for spring...
Which is not to say that the decisions he has to make are always easy. In 2000 Hugo Boss had made a disastrous debut in the womenswear market that cost the company $75.8 million, or 38% of sales, over four years. The division was based in Milan, where, as Sälzer puts it, "the team had, collectively, thousands of years of experience. Yet the crazy thing was, there were big mistakes in all areas. The organization didn't work, and not because we don't know Milan. The problem was, the spirit didn't come over." Once in charge...
CLEARLY THAT PROBLEM is in the past. The womenswear under the Boss Black label being shown tonight, designed by Ingo Wilts, a German who has been promoted through the ranks, is sleek and sexy. Boss Orange, designed by Andrea Cannelloni, an Italian who has been with the company in Germany since 1998, is more casual. Tonight's finale showcases the Hugo label, the brand's most avant-garde offering, and marks the debut of Belgian designer Bruno Pieters, the first major creative appointment Boss has made outside the company since the Milan fiasco. Pieters' collection of compass-cut coats, jackets...
...Wang the corporation. Her name is synonymous with fashionable brides' and bridesmaids' dresses. Her evening gowns are red-carpet staples. After an early venture into ready-to-wear proved a critical and commercial disappointment in 2001, she made a risky second dive in with great success?she was named Womenswear Designer of the Year by the CFDA in 2005. She has since launched a younger, secondary line, Lavender, and this fall teams up with Kohl's to launch a mass-market minicollection, Simply Vera. She has two fragrances and a line of diamonds and sells housewares, linens and china under...
...candy on the street and stumbled upon his interest in fashion only "by accident" at the age of 16 when he was hired as an apprentice to "an old man in the business" (he's vague on the details). After studying classics in college, he designed and ran a womenswear line for 11 years. "It was very junior and very technical," he says. "I learned the business there?production, manufacturing, development." In 1981 he moved to the U.S. "for the California sun" and launched Jess, a successful French fashion retail chain. Eight years later, eager to do more than ready...