Word: womenswear
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David Asher, vice president and general merchandise manager of womenswear at Holt Renfrew, the Canadian department store, says the savviest of shoppers get Akris because these fashion purists "aren't motivated by splashy ad campaigns but by fresh femininity, superior construction and focus on each piece of clothing, rather than on an overextended megabrand with its name on every manner of product category...
...director of Burberry and onetime Jil Sander designer, is back on the runway with a collection that will debut during New York Fashion Week. Expect a focus on distinctive fabrics--developed exclusively for Menichetti--subtle colors and a mix of luxury and affordable pieces. The eponymous line includes menswear, womenswear and accessories...
While Karan is appreciated for understanding her customers' busy lives, she is also, as one of few women among the major American designers, credited with having a unique understanding of her customers' bodies. But Karan argues that a good womenswear designer is not necessarily one with two X chromosomes, but rather one with talent. "When people ask me why there are not more female designers, I point out that there aren't more female executives in any business," she says. "It's a struggle and a balance to work and be a mother and a wife." That said...
...Italian sugar parents have also enabled Bartlett, who is based in New York City, to branch out into womenswear, which he started just last year but which already, he says, does four or five times the business of his men's line. This is partly because as a bona fide all-American, good-looking, young and talented man in the fashion industry, Bartlett attracts hype the way linen attracts wrinkles. And hype sells clothes. But it's also partly because the man has an eye. He hasn't attracted big bucks yet. Revenues this year will be somewhere around...
...then there is no Beene world for sale. In the four decades he has designed womenswear, Beene, who will receive a lifetime-achievement award from the Council of Fashion Designers of America next week, has refrained from becoming a purveyor of life-style. He doesn't sell gimmicks or trends or, remarkably, given fashion's celebrity culture, himself. Each of his meticulously cut dresses, gowns and jackets stands as part of a technical, ongoing treatise on line, fabric, demure sensuality. Notes former Vogue editor Grace Mirabella: "He is the finest and purest designer we have...