Word: wool
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...hand looms turning out commercial copies of famous tapestries. Since Lurcat revived the art of the tapissier, Aubusson has seven workshops turning out the work of modern designers on hand looms. For his own works Lurcat has shunned the standard "library'' of 14,500 different tones of wool and adopted a more practical 13 colors; he has also restored the old 14th century weave of six threads per centimeter to produce a more vigorous texture than the tenor eleven-thread count of the more recent "corrupt" period...
...that the weaver follows at the loom. Formerly weavers took considerable latitude with colors and even design, but in transferring Lurgat's fanciful designs to tapestry, they are given no margin at all. Each color area bears a number that corresponds to a number on a skein of wool, not unlike the popular "by the numbers" painting kits; the method gives Lurgat complete control over the finished product...
...Wool & Straw. The exhibition at Lausanne University's Palais de Rumine is showing the works of 57 artists from 17 nations, including ten from behind the Iron Curtain, and two from the U.S. Each artist is limited to a single work, with the exception of Henri Matisse, who is considered one of the pioneers of the renaissance of European tapestry and is represented by twin tapestries, inspired by a visit to Tahiti, called Polynesia: The Sea and The Sky. Poland commissioned five original designs, considered by many the most interesting tapestries in the show because of their crude, rough...
Schwartz has ridden the postwar trend to national style in fashions and materials. "Take a dress like this," says he, fingering a "double-knit" wool sheath. "You can wear this in Nova Scotia or you can wear it in Atlanta when the temperature is 107 degrees." Schwartz and his Cornell-educated son Richard, 24, Jonathan Logan's executive vice president, now show new lines in Dallas or Minneapolis before they show in New York, discard models that go over poorly outside Manhattan...
Pacemaking Jonathan Logan also is a leader in the technology of garment making. Its factory at Spartanburg, S.C., is in a mechanical sense the industry's first "integrated" plant. "Raw wool in one door and finished dresses out the other," beams Schwartz...