Word: wooled
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John W. Thomas is only slightly moved by the display. He names his price, saying he can pay no more. After already unrolling several of his most choice products ("this is Berber wool, made by Berber women in the mountains, it is not manufactured") the salesman knows this customer means business. "You kill me," he says giving in, and takes Thomas' money, thanking him profusely...
...with order forms, style books, color charts, the buyers, with occasional encouragement and sweet talk from the designers, start to act just like serious shoppers. They pull clothes off racks, hold them up, try them on. Armani's definitive long coats and shorter sexy skirts; his loose, liquid, wool jumpsuits; his jackets with turned-down lapels; his heart-stopping evening wear... heaven on a hanger! Claude Montana's huge coats in electroshock colors; Yohji Yamamoto's sweaters in colors like a deep-sea bottom! Saint Laurent's peerless pants! It is easy enough, in the midst...
Budgets may be a matter of greater moment to smaller operations like Maxfield's than to Bloomingdale's or Bergdorf's. But when a buyer prices a garment ($48 for a Comme des Garçons wool T shirt, $523 for one of the shearling coats Montana designs for Complice) it is usually presented at "first cost." The designer's fee, as well as the tab for actually making the garment, and the designer's sales expenses and promotion budget are often included. What a U.S. store pays, however, can be as much...
...HOPE RESTS, albeit precariously, with Duarte. True, rumors abound that a Duarte victory would prompt a coup by the extremist parts of the army, who view Duarte as a dyed-in-the-wool Communist. But most sections of the armed forces will move probably regard a Duarte government at the surest way to keep the dollars coming...
...approved Government support of research and development and Government-financed job-retraining programs, Schultze warned that a "coordination" program would almost surely increase protectionism and unwarranted subsidies. Said he: "A Government agency that explicitly tries to sit there and say, 'The cotton industry can live but the wool-textile industry will die' or 'The Youngstown steel plant can be rehabilitated but the Weirton plant must close' will be a terrible mistake." The invisible hand of the free market, Schultze said, should make the decisions about industrial structure, even though the "choices will be imperfect...