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Fragrance makers are using this long history of intensive research and development to expand their markets by introducing scent into unexpected places. IFF, for example, has embedded lavender and chamomile in pillows for Marks & Spencer and has woven the smell of "clean" into socks for Target. The textiles in these products use microcapsules filled with scent that lingers even after dozens of washings. Another recent innovation from IFF resulted in smell-blocking garbage bags...

Author: /time Magazine | Title: The Smell of Competition | 5/3/2007 | See Source »

...through "Wack! Art and the Feminist Revolution," a pinwheel of an exhibition that runs through July 16 at the Geffen Contemporary outpost of the Los Angeles Museum of Contemporary Art. "Wack!" which was curated by Cornelia Butler, starts with a bang. It's called Abakan Red, a coarsely woven, more or less circular bolt of red cloth. Suspended from the ceiling almost to the floor, it was made in 1969 by the great Polish sculptor Magdalena Abakanowicz, an early adopter of "humble" women's crafts like weaving as high-art techniques. She also understood how abstract images could be adjusted...

Author: /time Magazine | Title: What Women Have Done to Art | 3/22/2007 | See Source »

Back then even the fashion press?which now seems more interested in celebrity mating habits than in the art of making beautiful clothes?used to list the textile mills where these raw materials of fashion dreams were woven. A journalist on deadline who now might be more familiar with the spelling of Lindsay Lohan's name once had to know how to spell the names of the famous fabric houses: Ratti, Bucol, Gandini, Clerici, Guigou, Mantero and, of course, Abraham, the Swiss fabric house owned by Gustav Zumsteg, the late, great textile designer who invented the stiffly finished silk gazar...

Author: /time Magazine | Title: Miuccia Prada's Material World | 3/1/2007 | See Source »

...Uslenghi explains. "You bond different fabrics, fuse them together." Looking even further ahead, to spring 2008, he says textile mills are using lots of sculpting and etching techniques that create a kind of bas-relief effect on fabric. A traditional, rich fabric like silk shantung, for example, will be woven with very coarse yarn and linen hemp so that the surface looks embroidered, "almost in an arte povera way," Uslenghi says...

Author: /time Magazine | Title: Miuccia Prada's Material World | 3/1/2007 | See Source »

...fabrics she used in the early 1990s when mills were introducing technology from the athletic-wear industry. But in Prada's hands even those fabrics were not used in a traditional way: nylon replaced leather for bags; it became shiny, luxurious and embroidered for evening coats; or it was woven with purer yarns like cashmere to give it a stiffer hand. "I like to mix it up and make things in the opposite way than they were meant for," she explains. "Sometimes I ask [fabric mills] to mix up new combinations for the most normal fabrics?like something more stiff...

Author: /time Magazine | Title: Miuccia Prada's Material World | 3/1/2007 | See Source »

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