Word: wurst
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Dates: during 1960-1969
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...with green sawdust and the cramped cooking area is about as immaculate. Elsie's is uncomfortable. When there are more than about nine people, you have to eat standing up. But Elsie's has good food at low prices. Spectacular food. Creme cheese and caviar sandwiches. Chopped liver. Beer Wurst. Knackwurst, Bratwurst. Wurst Salad. Just plain Wurst. Knackwurst, Bavarian oxtail soup. Danish Cakes. Cheese cake. The fast, efficient members of the counter gang have the dedicated air of European innkeepers. People who patronize Elsie's are serious about eating and only the uncouth order hamburgers. They like Cossack hats...
...Spice. Germans have long been famed for conspicuous consumption, but the first fad in the early years of postwar prosperity was the Fresswelle, or eating vogue. When that first craving for wurst, schnitzel, dumplings and chocolate bars was satisfied, they sank their spare income in the Autowelle, deserting bicycles and motor scooters for automobiles, and after that in the Wohnungswelle (new homes), and then the Reisewelle (fad for traveling). Now things are right back where they started, but on a higher, more sophisticated plane. Explained one Hamburg University political scientist: "Food is an obsession with Germany. It is the symbol...
...Frankfurt, if you ask for frankfurter Wurst, you will be served a pair of hors d'oeuvre-size smoked sausages with a slice of bread. In Hamburg, if you ask for a hamburger, the man behind the counter will say, "Ich bin ein Hamburger! Everyone who lives here is a Hamburger!" And when you are in a German beer hall, don't bellow out that favorite of American rathskellers-"Ist das nicht ein Schnitzelbank? Ja, das ist ein Schnitzelbank"-everyone will think you're crazy, except, of course, the American tourists at the next table, who will...
Even in Munich he has remained a power for Ludwig Erhard to reckon with because he heads the 50 delegates of the Christian Social Union, the C.D.U.'s affiliate in Bavaria. Nonetheless, as Strauss was re-elected C.S.U. leader in Munich last week amid the redolence of wurst, beer and cigar smoke, it was clear that Franz Josef was as imperial - and imperious - as ever, and a far less palatable Bavarian export than Löwenbr...
...silence of the Eastern sector. There was none of the bustle and traffic noise of the West, and even conversations among neighbors had a leaden, monotonous quality, with the nuances coming from the eyes. The only color was in the shops, stocked especially for the holiday season with eggs, wurst of all kinds, toys, cosmetics, porcelain and even-wonder of wonders-oranges. The Vopos seemed to be the major consumers of these tropical delicacies, and every snowy crossing point reeked with the tang of orange peel. But everyone knew that by mid-January the East Berlin grocery shops would...