Word: wyborowa
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...Wyborowa single estate vodka is a difficult thing to grasp. Not intellectually speaking--by now, spending $30 a bottle for an essentially odorless, flavorless liquid is considered a sign of excellent taste--but the bottle is hard to grip. The top twists away from the base, knocking it off balance in one's hand, making every pour an adventure and giving it the appearance of a Frank Gehry creation...
...Wyborowa Single Estate's birth, several years in the making, is a textbook example of how to launch a "superpremium" vodka. Beginning in the mid-'90s with Belvedere and Grey Goose, superpremiums have transformed vodka's image from a flavorless mixer into an "affordable luxury" that costs only $15 a cocktail...
Crafting such an image is a delicate business. In Wyborowa's case, it involved taste testing, mythmaking and Gehry-branded packaging, and culminated in a roll-out that began with bottles given to Oscar nominees last spring and will finish with national distribution next year...
Other importers, like Sweden's Absolut and Poland's Wyborowa, were quick to seize the chance to increase their market share. But none was so aggressive as the Chinese brand Tsingtao, imported by Monarch Import Co. of New York from the Shandong province of northern China. Monarch took full-page ads in the New York Times offering Tsingtao as a punishing alternative to Stolichnaya and extolling the Chinese vodka's delicate taste, although some drinkers find it harsh. An 80-proof fifth sells for a few cents more than Stolichnaya. The copy of one scrappy ad last...
...tourists who went north to Poland: the chill Baltic waters and harsh Hanseatic architecture of Sopot and Gdansk (formerly Danzig). In Warsaw, a city rebuilt after being 87% destroyed in World War II, they could bargain for paintings along the broad Nowy Swiat, drink ice-cold Wyborowa vodka at the Krokodyl, or simply stare at the Vistula when the city's drabness overcame them. Rumania stands in warm counterpoint-from the white sand beaches of Mamaia on the Black Sea, where 30 well-appointed new tourist hotels stand, to the clean, well-lighted cafés of Bucharest...
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