Word: yangshuo
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...like a pachyderm dipping its trunk in the river, and to add a pagoda or two to the more prominent hilltops and lakes. Millions of visitors - principally domestic groups - head to the city and its surrounds every year, dutifully tramping from one designated site to another, cruising downstream to Yangshuo past Fairy Maiden Peak, Wave Stone View and Chicken Cage Hill, filling up suitcases with osmanthus-flavored cakes and memory cards with souvenir photos...
...with the climbing wall at your local indoor sports center? Then make haste for the village of Yangshuo, in China's Guangxi province. With its undulating fairy-tale peaks, snaking rivers and emerald rice paddies, there can be few finer places to dangle from the end of a nylon rope?and that's why Yangshuo is fast emerging as China's rock-climbing capital. You don't have to be Spider-Man either: local operators now cater to everyone from school kids to corporate groups...
...scaling peaks? Then try kayaking down the Li River (also with China Climb) or hire a bicycle and head out on your own. There are lots of spectacular hikes in the vicinity, too. The Outside Inn, tel: (86-773) 881 7109, in Chao Long village, just 5 kilometers from Yangshuo, is a great place to base yourself for these: a path into the hills begins outside the gate. You can also explore the countryside with a "farmer-guide" whose tours include lunch in his or her own home (don't worry about finding these guides?they'll approach you). Whatever...
...their worst in Asia, the destination of choice since Wheeler and his wife Maureen released the first Lonely Planet book, Across Asia on the Cheap, in 1973. A well-worn trail links beaches in Goa (India), Boracay (Philippines), Bali (Indonesia) and southern Thailand and the peaks of Yangshuo (China) and Kathmandu (Nepal). In such numbers, backpackers can't help but trample culture and nature, whatever their environmental beliefs. "They tend to be like sheep, all going to the same places," admits Tony Wheeler. "That is a negative...
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