Word: yohji
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...heart, Ellis is a moral satirist torn by his attraction to what he criticizes. There are scenes which are nothing more than masturbatory lists of famous names--"Brooke Shields; John Stamos, Stephanie Seymour, Jenny Shimuzu [sic]". And so many brand names make an appearance, from Alaia to Prada to Yohji Yamamoto, you'd think he had a product placement contract. It seems to be Ellis' convenient shorthand for character sketches. When Victor undergoes a transformation to a law student, we know he is different because he now wears a Brooks Brothers suit and drinks Diet Coke. London and Paris become...
...innovative, but fastidiously cut and elegant. They even looked warm. Many of the best were redingotes, originally an 18th century man's mantle, with a fitted waist and full skirt. Hermes, which went far beyond its traditional horse-culture clothes, had some midnight-blue beauties. For the truly romantic, Yohji Yamamoto continued his exploration of Victorian dress with very full crinoline coats. All around the designer map, from Dior to Ralph Lauren, the alternative to the redingote was the so-called bathrobe coat-belted, very long and roomy...
...Yohji Yamamoto opened his presentation with dark, brooding outfits that were more like costumes: long belled skirts with heavy wool redingotes. In outline they had the eerie drama of displaced time. And, lest anyone miss the point, the impudent Jean-Paul Gaultier used a few cartoon wigs complete with pompadour and side curls -- in bright orange and electric blue...
Designing safe inside a creative cocoon, impervious to commercial flux, is an almost utopian ideal. It requires a nearly impossible combination: flinty individuality, a healthy business base, a viable commercial identity and a strong stylistic hand. Rei Kawakubo of Comme des garcons and Yohji Yamamoto have both been around long enough to be considered less revolutionaries than revisionist classicists, but their new collections showed them to be as restless and clever as ever. Kawakubo sent out dozens of outfits with unexpected lapels and seams like overgrown ski trails, most in combinations of black, red and orange, so the show seemed...
...were Americans--Claire McCardell and Charles James--but, truth be told, there is not a designer on the American scene now who can match Armani's bold finesse, never mind the inventiveness of Issey Miyake, the deluxe grace of Yves Saint Laurent or Karl Lagerfeld, the Zen funkiness of Yohji Yamamoto. The best American design tends to be generic, not designer labeled. It would be hard to find, for instance, a designer who has been influenced by Louis Dell'Olio, but it would be equally impossible to find an Italian leather blouson that is not derived in some way from...