Word: yuzhno
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...heaven, and now I have seen Sakhalin, and it is hell." Despite his stinging account, the people of Sakhalin have a lasting affection for the playwright and his introduction of the island to the world. His likeness vies with Lenin's on monuments throughout Sakhalin's capital, Yuzhno-Sakhalinsk...
...Yuzhno, I boarded a 1960s Russian-built turboprop from Hakodate airport in Japan for the two-hour hop across the Sea of Okhotsk. The two nations are separated by a mere 43 kilometers of water, but the cultural gulf between them is immeasurable. Whereas Hakodate has a fastidious obsession with order and cleanliness, Sakhalin is rough and gritty, reflecting its history. Forgotten by successive Russian governments and weather-beaten by violent winter storms, Yuzhno is a mix of degraded Soviet architecture, dusty, potholed streets and makeshift stalls...
...Yuzhno is the most convenient starting point for an island tour. At the center of the main square, Lenin's statue towers over the city's forgotten Soviet monuments. Once beautiful mosaics honoring patriotic laborers crumble within his view, and statues dedicated to Soviet idealism lay toppled and strewn about the city like last year's toys...
...Sakhalin's nightlife, though diverse in its offerings?casinos, discos, cabaret shows and outdoor barbecues abound?is alcohol-driven. This being Russia, the vodka is cheap and plentiful. If you can still walk after the first?or second?bottle, try to get to Yuzhno's popular local brewery in the center of town. Higher-minded pursuits include the Sakhalin regional museum (housed in the Imperial Japanese Government Offices dating from when the Japanese controlled southern Sakhalin from 1905-45), the Russian Orthodox Church, the Chekhov Theater, street markets selling everything from wild berries to furs, and Gagarin Park, complete with...